Try a better bourbon

As much a tradition as champagne on New Year's Eve, mint juleps have reigned over Derby Day for 100 years. And, as with most things steeped in tradition, there's a great deal of debate over exactly

Wednesday, April 19th 2000, 12:00 am

By: News On 6

As much a tradition as champagne on New Year's Eve, mint juleps have reigned over Derby Day for 100 years. And, as with most things steeped in tradition, there's a great deal of debate over exactly how to make a proper mint julep.

The dividing line seems to be whether or not to use simple syrup, a mixture of sugar and water boiled until the sugar dissolves.

"I prefer to put the sugar in the glass," says Jack Shaw, a 25-year bartending veteran who's currently behind the bar at The Mansion on Turtle Creek. "Grinding the sugar grains into the mint bruises the leaves more than just mashing the leaves and brings out more flavor."

On the other hand, the 80,000 juleps that will be served at Churchill Downs over Derby weekend are made with simple syrup because it's impractical to crush the leaves in that many glasses.

Unfortunately, Derby Day - May 6 this year - is the only day many folks drink bourbon in any form, and that's a shame. Rich, flavorful and slightly sweet, bourbon should be enjoyed throughout the year, not just to celebrate the Kentucky Derby.

Bourbon was created in the early 1800s by settlers in what is now Kentucky when they discovered that corn whiskey mellowed and developed a sweeter flavor when left to age in charred oak barrels. Around 1835, Dr. James C. Crow discovered that if he used a little of the leftover mash from one batch of whiskey as a starter for the next, he had more control over the fermentation process, thus inventing "sour mash" whiskey.

Bourbon became and remained one of the most popular spirits in the country until Prohibition. After that, it began to fade as quality declined and vodka, gin and scotch became the drinks of choice.

Enter T. William "Bill" Samuels, Jr., in the late 1950s. He was convinced that folks would drink a high quality, elegant bourbon if someone would just make it. So he did, introducing Maker's Mark in 1958.

Forty years later, there are dozens of well-crafted, high quality, delicious bourbons on the market. Most of them are "small batch," meaning the bourbon was selected from a few of the best barrels in the distillery and blended, or "single barrel," which, as the name implies, are bourbons bottled from one single barrel.

So whether you're making your mint juleps with simple syrup or sugar, using one of these upscale bourbons will enhance the beverage. And remember the advice of Lt. Col. Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr., when asked to provide the recipe for his legendary mint juleps so admired by President Roosevelt on a visit to West Point.

"A mint julep is not the product of a formula. It is a ceremony and must be performed by a gentleman possessing a true sense of the artistic, a deep reverence for the ingredients and a proper appreciation of the occasion. It is a rite that must not be entrusted to a novice, a statistician, nor a Yankee."

Louise Owens writes the Spirits column the third week of every month. Address mail to the Food Section, The Dallas Morning News, P.O. Box 655237, Dallas, Texas 75265. Fax to (214) 977-8321. E-mail food@dallasnews.com or spiritscolumn@hotmail.com.

TASTING THE BOURBONS

Here's a look at some of the small-batch and single-barrel bourbons. Prices are for 750-milliliter bottles:

* Sam Houston Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky Very Small Batch Aged Ten Years Batch No. 1 Bottle No. 1935 ($32.99): The unofficial bourbon for Texans has a distinctive fresh evergreen and spicy nutmeg scent. Starts off with a menthol tang, then mellows out for a warm finish.

* Maker's Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky Handmade ($19.99): For more than 40 years, they've set the standard for fine bourbon. And it's no wonder they still rank at the top: With aromas lush with toasted almonds and hazelnuts and a glowing, nutty vanilla flavor, it glides down the throat.

* Corner Creek Reserve Bourbon Whiskey Aged 8 Years ($29.99): Brand new in the Texas market, this is a keeper. Little sprigs of violets and oranges peep out from the honey and vanilla aromas, and the fairly light body makes a racy little bourbon for building cocktails.

* Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 18 years (barreled on March 27, 1981; Barrel No. 369) ($42.99): Whoa - the golden amber color and deep rich scent of vanilla don't prepare you for this stealth bourbon that goes in smooth, then explodes into a long fiery finish.

* Jefferson's Reserve 15 Years Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Very Small Batch No. 2,329 of 2,400 bottles. Batch No. 07 ($54.99): Smells like an intense vanilla bean ice cream with toffee sprinkles. Glides in smooth as silk, then slithers down the throat like melting caramel.

* Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon ($42.99): The scent of chocolate malt and cinnamon toast along with the toasted nut and bittersweet chocolate flavors completely mask the fact that this is a powerhouse 101 proof bourbon.

* Old Charter 12 Years Old "The Classic 90" Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($19.49): Almost like a Cognac in style, with aromas of toasted, buttered vanilla beans and sage. It's sleek and smooth in the mouth with a silky finish.

* Wathen's Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($28.99): The light scent of candied nuts and fresh blast of mint followed by toffee on the end make this great for cocktails.
* W.L. Weller Centennial 10 Years Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($33.99): Warm sweet vanilla, toffee and raisin aromas rise up out of the glass, and the bourbon slithers down your throat with a rich, supple honey glow that goes on and on.